SULLEN

Designer archives upstairs in Jinnan

SULLEN sells past designer collections beside current clothing on Jinnan House's second floor. Its archive also supplies hire pieces for fashion, film and design research. A garment can therefore be both a purchase and working material: a short jacket or an unusual shoulder proportion put back into use. Stylist SERATA introduced the shop as a long-time friend who helped with its opening; ORIMI's designer also supplied a personal recommendation.

A short jacket: shoulders, length and lining

A Balenciaga autumn/winter 2013 short tailored jacket described in an earlier shop listing provides a useful example of a cut ending near the waist. Try on a short and a longer jacket, then compare the shoulder line and room across the chest. Measurements from a jacket you wear comfortably tell you more than a size number on an old label.

The seller also disclosed black leather piping inside the lining that was prone to peeling. A tidy exterior is a reason to inspect the inside edges, not to skip them. Establish what needs repair and whether the garment will still have the shape you want afterwards. That judgement belongs to choosing an archive piece as much as its designer or season.

Compare knitwear with the layer underneath

A brown cotton argyle vest described in an earlier listing offers a different lesson: how a sleeveless knit works over a shirt. Look at the collar and sleeves beneath it, and where the armholes and hem sit, rather than choosing by the pattern alone. The comparison differs from finding a tailored jacket’s shoulder line.

Compare the knit’s hanging shape with its proportions when worn. Try it with the sort of shirt you already use, including the ease you will need if another layer goes over it.

Allow time to try it on

The address is Jinnan House 2F, 1-13-12 Jinnan; operator hours are 13:00–20:00. Allow an estimated 20–30 minutes to browse, or 45–60 with fittings. Bringing the measurements of a jacket you already wear gives the short proportions a useful reference. THE ELEPHANT extends the trip toward experimental new designer pieces; LOCUL adds records and a café to a shared shopping floor.

Read it with

LOCUL“Archives, shared retail, emerging designers” · Shared retail

THE ELEPHANT“Archives, shared retail, emerging designers” · Emerging designers

Before you go

Hours and fees

Jinnan House 2F. Operator hours 13:00–20:00; check visit-day notices.

Good to know

Designers, sizes and price ranges vary with stock; contact the shop for a specific purchase.